Tag 151 (6.10.2012)
After some beach time near the restaurant we had lunch on the boat and left tomb bay at one o'clock, heading towards the southern end of the gulf of fethiye/göcek and the group of funny named coves (at least the Rod Heikell has funny names for them): Wall bay, ruin bay and seagull bay. We sailed the enormous distance of 5.7 nm (it would have been 2.75 nm only, without tacking) and arrived around 3 o'clock. We intended to anchor (without landline) but there was a guy at the restaurant boat's jetty who waved frantically and the available anchoring space was rather sparce with the ground dropping off very quickly. So we went bows in first to inquire about mooring without going to the restaurant and about the depth at the jetty. Mooring without eating is okay, he said, and the water is over 4 m directly at the jetty.
So we went out again, turned around, prepared the anchor (the mooring lines looked rather thin) and put out the fenders. After dropping the anchor we slowly went in backwards until the anchor held us about 5 m off the jetty with the engine pulling backwards, towards the jetty. I threw over the lines, got them back, fastened them and picked up the mooring line, passing it to Iris who fastened it at the bow. Then I took a measurement and found out, to my utter astonishment, that the water was only 2.6 m deep at the end of the boat. I told this to the guy who said it was 4 m and he did not even looked astonished. So I started shouting at him that this is no good way to get customers to his restaurant and we took off again. If I would not have been that cautious and had not double checked, I would have run my rudder aground. The water here is so clear, that „it always looks shallow“, so you have to either trust the jetty guy (never again!) or take your own soundings (from now on always?).
We were about to leave the bay, when the guy came to us in his dinghy and offered to help us bring out a line to the trees (he told me it were his private trees, so it would be ok; I had asked him about the law forbidding to tie to trees in Turkey). So we decided to took that peace offering and anchored some meters off his jetty. Unfortunately our anchor did not hold the first time, so we had to do it again, dropping the anchor about 15 m further out on 25 m of depth. In the end I had to let out the whole 60m of chain and another 15 m of the anchor rope that I had spliced to the chain some weeks ago.
Later on we visited our neighbours, Australians on a 50 foot Benetau, because they so nicely invited us over by waving a bottle of white wine. So we lowered the dinghy, attached the motor and invaded their boat 
We all had a lot of fun (in the end Anna, Lara, me and Isabella were dancing on the foredeck; not due to the white wine but the music that so much appealed to Anna) and went back a it after 5 in the evening. They promised to visit us tomorrow morning after breakfast, and later tomorrow we will visit the saegull on the beach, made out of white stones, that gave the cove it's name.
Wir sind heute am Morgen erst mal noch nach dem Frühstücken an den Strand gegangen und haben gebadet. Mama und Papa haben dabei noch einen türkischen Tee bzw. Kaffee genossen. Leider kam der Barbier/Masseur doch nicht um 10, sonst hätten wir evtl. seine Dienste in Anspruch genommen.
So haben wir die Jungs gejagt (die verstehen es inzwischen hervorragend im Team für Ablenkung zu sorgen, damit einer von beiden etwas anstellen kann) und mit den Mädels eine Sandburg (es war dann doch mehr Schlick bzw. sehr, sehr feiner Kies) gebaut. Schwimmen waren wir auch kurz und danach gab es noch eine Runde zu Trinken, denn es war dann ja schon fast Mittag.
Zu Mittag haben wir jedoch an Bord gegessen (Tsatsiki, Thunfisch-Mais-Salat und Brot) und haben danach (kurz vor eins) abgelegt. Wir wollten zu einer der drei Buchten ganz im Süden des Golfs von Fethiye/Göcek fahren. Die haben (zumindest im Rod Heikell Hafenhandbuch) so schöne Namen wie „Wall Bay“, „Ruin Bay“ und „Seagull Bay“.
Um dort hin zu kommen sind wir bis drei Uhr die sagenhafte Strecke von 2.75 nm direkter Weg bzw. 5.7 nm auf Kreuzkurs nur mit dem Vorsegel gesegelt. Wir hatten immer zwischen 8.5 und 11 kn Wind genau aus Süden aber an den Buchten bzw. Landvorsprüngen an denen wir vorbeigesegelt sind hat er immer etwas gedreht, aufgefrischt oder abgeflaut. Es war also doch immer was zu tun, trotz Selbstwendefock.
In der Seagull Bay, für die wir uns am Schluss entschieden haben, ist eine Möwe aus weissen Steinen am Strand ausgelegt. Leicht den Hang hinauf, so dass man sie super sehen kann. Die werden wir uns morgen früh noch ansehen.
Wir wollten erst frei ankern, aber die Ufer fallen im Wasser doch recht steil ab. Also sind wir doch zu dem Steg des Restaurantbootes gefahren, auf dem schon jemand heftig gewinkt hat. Wir sind erst mal mit dem Bug voraus hingefahren, damit Iris fragen konnte, ob wir auch willkommen sind, wenn wir nicht essen gehen (wir wollten mal wieder etwas selber kochen) und ob es tief genug ist für unser 2.4 m Ruderblatt.
Der Mann/Wirt meinte: Kein Problem, der Steg ist kostenlos auch ohne essen zu gehen und es wäre über 4 m tief. Ich habe dann nochmal wegen der Tiefe nachgefragt und auf unser tiefes Ruder hingewiesen. Er meinte wieder kein Problem: Ganz tief.
Also haben wir umgedreht, die Fender raus, den Anker vorbereitet (ich wollte mich nicht nur auf die ziemlich dünn wirkenden Mooringleinen verlassen) und geworfen und sind rückwärts auf den Steg zu gefahren. Ich habe Iris den Anker schon recht früh dicht kommen lassen, so dass wir mit Motorhilfe genau so weit weg vom Steg standen, dass die Leinen gerade rüber und wieder zurück reichten. Also von der runter geklappten Badeplattform aus noch etwa 5 m. Es sah schon sehr, sehr flach aus. Also habe ich nochmal nachgefragt. Wieder hiess es: tief genug, über 4 m am Steg an dieser Stelle. Ich habe die Leinen rüber gegeben, die Mooring entgegen genommen (da wollte er mich schon näher ziehen an den Leinen, aber ich habe abgewunken, da ich erst Iris die Mooring belegen lassen wollte) und habe dann doch noch das Lot genommen und die Tiefe an der Badeplattform gemessen. Da waren es gerade noch 2.6 m und genauso direkt am Heck. Da bin ich dann fast ausgeflippt und habe dem Typen angeschnauzt er soll mich nicht anlügen über die Tiefe am Steg, oder sich selber mal informieren. Er hat dann auch gar nicht verwundert geschaut, als ich ihm mitgeteilt habe, dass es 5 m vom Steg entfernt schon nur noch 2.6 m tief ist. Ich habe ihm auf den Kopf zugesagt, dass er damit sicher keine Kunden gewinnt und seinen Ruf verliert, wenn er die Segler beim anlegen im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes auflaufen lässt.
Wir haben also die Mooring wieder ins Wasser geworfen und den Anker hochgezogen. Eigentlich wollten wir schon fahren, da kam der Typ dann doch recht kleinlaut mit seinem Dinghi dahergefahren und hat uns angeboten uns beim ausbringen einer Landleine zu helfen, wenn wir etwas weiter neben seinem Steg ankern wollen.
Das haben wir dann auch gemacht, mussten aber zwei mal ankern, da der Anker beim ersten mal immer wieder gerutscht ist, bis ich hinten schon so nahe am Ufer war, dass wir nur noch 3.5 m Wassertiefe am Heck hatten. Also haben wir den Anker nochmal geschmissen, dieses mal etwa 15 m weiter draussen, wo es schon 25 m tief war. Schlussendlich musste ich dann über die 60 m Ankerkette hinaus gehen und wir hängen jetzt an der von mir angespleissten Ankerleine und haben damit etwa 75 draussen. Vielleicht brauchen wir doch noch eine Kettenverlängerung…
Während des Manövers haben unsere Nachbarn (Australier auf einer Benetau Oceanis 50) den Mann eine gekühlte Wasserflasche rüber bringen lassen für uns. Das war mir erst peinlich, da ich annahm es soll eine Anspielung auf das klassische Bild sein, dass wir dargeben: Mann am Steuer schickt Frau an den Anker und brüllt dann von hinten immer wieder was vor (es ist wirklich nicht leicht die Iris zu fragen, wieviel Kette schon draussen ist ohne zu brüllen, wenn sie über der rausratternden Kette steht).
Sie haben uns dann aber später noch eine Weisweinflasche hochhaltend zu sich rüber eingeladen. Und wir sind dann auch alle 6 rübergefahren. Sie haben sich sehr über ihren Besuch gefreut und wir haben uns nett unterhalten. Am Schluss haben Anna, Lara, Ich und Isabella noch auf dem Vorschiff getanzt (auf Wunsch der Mädels). Gegen viertel nach 5 sind wir dann zurück an Bord und es gab die letzten Nürnberger Bratwürstel (vom Lidl in Griechenland) mit Rösti (von Frank und Constanza aus München mitgebracht) und angebratenen Parprika (in Göcek gekauft). Es hat allen geschmeckt, nur Luca wollte die Paprika nicht essen …
Jetzt ist es super ruhig (bis auf den Motor oder Generator des Restaurantbootes) und dem Wiederhall des Gelächters der Crew von einem Katamaran die nicht weit von uns aber dafür direkt vor der Felswand liegen. Morgen werden uns Ron und Isabella nach dem Frühstück auf unserem Boot besuchen (sie haben uns Ihr Schiff gezeigt und wir wollten ihnen gerne auch unseres zeigen) und dann sehen wir uns noch die Seemöwe an.
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